Caning Discussion with Domaris
May, 2001

Domaris exclaims: alright, let's get started!  Welcome, everyone, to tonight's talk about caning. This is certainly one of my favorite subjects, and I hope you'll enjoy hearing about it too. Tonight we're going to cover the basics. If you're new to caning, my advice is to stick with the basics until you're more familiar with it.

Domaris asks: Let's start with the really basic of basics. What is a cane? A cane, for this purpose, is a slim flexible rod. Typically you'll find them in lengths of 30-36 inches, with diameters from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch. There can be variations here - I've seen a rod  that was about an inch around, for example. A cane may have a handle on it, or it may not. It may be  entirely straight, or it might have a crooked handle.

Domaris asks: How about materials? There are two types here - natural  materials and synthetics. Each will have its own unique properties. The most common natural cane you'll find is made from rattan  (the same sort of stuff in wicker furniture). Rattan is a woody reed from the East Indies, and it has a  jointed stem. It looks a lot like bamboo, but it's not hollow (bamboo is). Bamboo is not a recommended material for caning. It's hollow, it breaks easily, and it's not very flexible. It's also possible to use other natural woods: think birch bundles, or switches made from fruit trees or other green hardwoods.

Domaris says: Synthetics are becoming more common. These might be made of materials
such as delrin, lexan (or polycarbonate), or acrylic. Synthetic canes are good for their availability, plus they're not too expensive. They have a nice smooth finish and deliver a fairly thuddy blow (though this isn't always the case).

Domaris asks: Basic qualities for any cane material? A thin cane will be stingier, and a thick cane will be thuddier (and produce less vibration).

Domaris asks: So how do you figure out what to try? Different moods and styles of play will lead to different canes in the toybag. Some people like the sensuousness and flexibility of a natural 
cane.  When you're looking to buy a natural cane, it's important to find the balance of it. Trying to 'whip' the cane isn't a good test of its quality. Hold it by the handle and bounce it up and down. Does it move in a good, even up and down path? Or does the tip swish from side to side unpredictably? What you're looking for is a cane that you can control. You want to know where that tip is going to land. Also, a natural cane should have a certain amount of  flexibility. If you bend it and it won't spring back into shape, it's not flexible enough. Snd, of course, if you bend it and it breaks, this is not the cane to buy. <grin> plus, the store owner might be a little annoyed with you. [editor's note: bending a natural cane into a "circle" is not a good test of flexibility, it simply breaks down the cells for the cane.  You're looking for spring from a slight bend...don't bend it  into a pretzel.  That accomplishes nothing, and damages the cane.]

Domaris says: If you're looking at a natural cane, take a look over the surface for flaws, nicks, or cracks. A synthetic cane is going to have less variation in it. Be aware that some plastics can break without warning and leave a sharp edge. There should again be a bit of flexibility to the material, 
though most synthetics won't have as much as a rattan cane. If you like a handle, pick a cane with a handle. It's not a must-have. You can also buy natural rattan canes that have not been lacquered, or that have had the outer skin shaved off (peeled rattan).

Domaris asks: What about size? A dense, stiff cane can be very severe during heavy play, but 
the same cane can be effectively used to deliver a lighter, more controlled stroke. A thin, whippy cane will require a certain minimum force in order to deliver an effective stroke. If the cane doesn't move quickly enough, it'll just end up flopping around. Thick canes are thuddy and will affect the tissue deeper below the surface. They can produce some heavy bruising, too. A thin cane can deliver more of a stingy, surface effect, but are more likely to cut. (Especially if welts cross.) A longer cane can deliver more strike power. If you want to work on delicate areas that shouldn't withstand deep tissue impact? Opt for a shorter and thinner cane, which will give lower strike power and more surface impact.

Domaris asks: How do you care for your canes? Natural materials require more maintenance than synthetics. At least once a year, soak a natural cane upright in water. It'll draw the water up the length of the cane. Remove any lacquering first, and re-coat it after soaking. If there isn't a lacquer coating, soak it more often to keep it moist. Also, keep the tip sanded smooth to avoid any sharp or protruding edges. Rattan will break very easily if it dries out. Do not store a natural cane leaning in a corner or resting on the tip. Lie them flat, or hang them by the handle. Store them away from direct heat and sunlight. For cleaning, be aware that rattan, reeds, etc. are porous and  can not
be cleaned well enough to remove blood or body fluids. A non-porous cane can be cleaned with a mild bleach solution or whatever disinfecting solution you prefer.

Changeling asks: When soaking, do you have to remove the lacquer all over?
Domaris says: It's a good idea. That way, too, if there are any flaws or cracks in the lacquer, you can redo the whole finish, and when you do refinish it  there aren't bumpy parts where the different layers of finish overlapped. 

Domaris says: Preparing for your scene. Check your cane before you use it. If you like, you can assign this sort of preparation and maintenance task to the bottom or submissive. Are there any flaws, cracks, or sharp edges? A nylon stocking is good for checking for snags. Keep the room warm enough for it to be comfortable. A cold room makes it harder for the submissive to take the 
pain. Plus, cold muscles will recover more slowly, and can be more readily injured. Make sure you have enough light to see your target, and their skin. Don't forget to warm them up, too. Light drumming on the skin to warm it up, light spanking, or a light, rapid circular 'fluffing' motion with the cane all work well.

Domaris says: As for positioning.. Some people like bondage along with a caning, but some don't. In some cases, you might find that the fantasy that goes along with an erotic caning can be fairly particular (schoolteacher or governess scenes play in well here). It's good to have the submissive well-supported, without having to dedicate too much attention to their balance. They might be bent over a solid, stable piece of furniture (beware of the sciatic nerve, skin that's made too taut, and how exposed the tailbone is!)  they might be kneeling, which can make it hard to keep position since it's less supported. they might be lying down, which is convenient for the  dominant, though
some think that it mutes the vibrations of the cane's impact. If the top is taller, it can be difficult to have a standing submissive. Your strokes can land too high, or be angled down so that the 
tip strikes first.

Domaris exclaims: alright, let's get to the good part - the actual caning! Please do take the time to learn your implement. Canes are a lot of fun and can be very intense, but they can also be damaging. A cane stroke is delivered with mostly the wrist and forearm, not the upper arm and shoulder as you might with a flogger. Try tucking your elbow in at your shoulder to practice getting 
the wrist action. The more movement you have in the shoulder and upper arm, the harder it will be to land your stroke accurately. With a cane, big backswings are neither necessary nor practical. It is possible to deliver backhanded strokes. A backhand stroke can actually hit harder than the forehand stroke. They do need a bit of practice to get a feel for, though.

Domaris says: The cane should be moving in a mostly horizontal plane, with a standing bottom. A powerful stroke doesn't require a lot of force. Try accelerating the tip just at impact, using the wrist. When you pick up the cane, don't hold it in a death grip. This'll mute the natural vibrations of the cane and detract from the effect. Pointing your index finger along the shaft will do the same 
thing. Try holding it loosely with your thumb and forefinger, using your other fingers for aim and stability. Of course, don't hold it so loosely that you drop it or  let it slip!!

Domaris says: The top should stand comfortably and in a stable position. Keeping your legs apart will help with stability. Stand at the bottom's hip, off to the side. Adjust where you are if needed. If you're too far back, the tip will hit first. If you're too far the other way, the strokes won't be evenly
distributed. 

The fastest moving part of a cane will be the tip, and the greatest intensity in the stroke will be delivered with the third of the cane that's farthest away from the handle. You want to try to deliver even strokes, divided evenly between the cheeks. Don't put too much pressure on the tip. And don't strike too close to the handle. If you let the tip extend out too far, it can wrap around to 
the hip or even farther. A cane is very capable of bending a full ninety degrees - don't underestimate this. Be aware of where the tip is going to strike. Adjust a poorly-aimed stroke with your stance, rather than your wrist or arm - this will be more reliably accurate. And remember that you can deliver strokes from both sides, which can help maintain evenness between both cheeks and also help increase the sub's tolerance.

Domaris says: Cover the space that you have (again, be aware of the tailbone). It will be difficult and potentially injurious to the bottom if all of the  strokes are delivered in a narrow band.

The cane stroke. A cane hits with a two-fold effect. First, the impact crushes the skin and creates the pain of impact. Then, as the tissue decompresses after the cane is removed, there is a second
wave of pain. Pacing and rhythm are important. It can take a couple of seconds for the bottom to process the feeling of a cane stroke. Too short of a recovery period between strokes can overload  the bottom and decrease how much they can take, and it can turn a good caning sensation into an unpleasant one. Give them time for the pleasurable sensations to spread. Also, be aware that for some subs, the pain of a cane stroke can be more difficult to take than other forms of pain. I've also heard from more than one sub that canes make them nervous. Please, do be considerate of these things!

Domaris says: If you deliver a more intense stroke, they need more time to recover. It takes time for the throb to rise up through the compressed  tissue. If you're delivering quicker strokes, it's a good idea to decrease the power of each stroke. If you hold the cane down after the impact, you can delay the second stage of pain slightly. And if you bounce the cane up immediately at impact, it'll emphasize the surface sting. A cane will leave a distinctive train-track welt.

Domaris asks: So where can you hit? The ass is the first choice, and in the opinions of some, the 
only choice. Be sure to work below the tailbone, and be aware of the sciatic nerve (especially with a bent bottom). The thighs can be caned. Be wary of the bones, which can be less covered on the backs of the thighs. The upper back is a possibility if there is good coverage over the shoulder blades, but avoid the spine. The breasts and genitals can be caned -lightly- and not with a thick
cane. Avoid the calves. If you're working on a delicate area, again, use a thin cane and a light stroke. do NOT cane on joints or areas where there is little to no  coverage over the bones. a cane delivers a large amount of energy in a small area. I've also heard it recommended to not strike downwards on breasts, penis, or testicles. This can promote muscle tearing - use an upward 
stroke. It is possible, especially with a heavy or thick cane, to bruise or chip bones, or crush nerves. this can lead to permanent damage. again, please take the time to learn your implement.

Let the bottom relax their muscles. The impact to the tissues will promote lactic acid buildup - 
tense muscles will promote this, and deepen the hurt later, plus it hurts a lot more right then. The more relaxed they are, the more the pain disperses. Try  having them spread their legs to decrease tensing up of the ass. Remember that the sub's skin will become very sensitive. If they say that it feels like it's cutting, there's a good  chance that it has or will cut. Especially if you're using a thin cane (but even with a thick  one), caning carries the high possibility of breaking the skin.

Domaris exclaims: Be aware of how to clean up your submissive if blood is drawn! If you draw blood with a porous cane that can not be cleaned,  do not use it on another bottom. Even a non-porous cane should be cleaned properly in between scenes. Do note that there may be small cuts or scrapes that you don't  see, releasing body fluid. It's not just blood that can present health risks.

Finally, a couple of tips for practicing. When you're going to deliver a stroke, try setting the cane 
down on the skin where you want it to go first, then pull back and strike that spot. This is also a nice warning for the sub.  If you're not sure about your tip, try putting a pillow alongside the far hip of a sub who's lying down. You'll be able to see and hear if the tip is striking the pillow, and you'll know it would have wrapped. Also, try sprinkling a pillow with powder and covering it with 
a dark pillowcase. When you strike, you can see where the powder fluffs out. With a bit of practice, you'll learn to match the sound of the cane's motion with its speed and intensity.

Domaris exclaims: And most of all - have fun! canes are wonderful toys, and certainly one of my favourites. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do!